Prompted by this recent post and this one. (Plus this one from some time ago)
For some reason I am becoming increasingly nostalgic about my previous adventures (and it’s not just me).
Sitting in our snug Heaton flat we’ve been recalling the madness of Vietnam and, later, Nicaragua.
But I am aware that, sadly, the memory is fading. Despite the blogs and the Flickr account there are some non-documented events that are all but gone.
The journey to the airport, for example, is getting hazy but there are still parts that remain vivid.
I don’t remember getting picked up but I do recall sitting in the back of a cab with the feeling that “this was it” spreading over me.
Despite being well used to the route, I tried to drink as much of it in as possible. The conical hatted ladies, which had long since just become part of my wallpaper, were once more noted. So too was the general traffic chaos and the long thin houses – particularly the posher ones by Truc Bac.
Then when we pulled away from the city I relaxed. I recalled that when I had first entered the country as a tourist, four years earlier, everywhere was rice fields. During my time there industry was making an increased impact on the environment.
The driver turned on the music. It was Vina Pop. That sickly, high energy, New Century style ick. It had been the soundtrack to so many minibus rides when I had cursed it.
Today though I asked him to turn it up. Then up again. We were laughing at the noise. He lit a cigarette and offered me one. Despite the fact that I had officially quit I accepted a Vinataba – ‘Nam’s cheap and rough smoke of choice.
I sat back. The Vina Boys belting on the radio, knocking Vinataba ash out the window and I smiled as the driver chuckled.
I texted everyone I knew back in Hanoi and described the scene, ending with “What a f*cking country”.
Before long I was at the airport. I recall ridiculously slow progress through Hanoi’s always stern customs but between us we cracked a few smiles as they puzzled over some visa details.
Then I was gone.
I know I am not the only one who has left to be haunted by my Vietnam memories and finding it hard to let go. I find myself once more scanning all the expat blogs and checking out Flickr pics (like these fabulous shots). I also keep wondering what happened to all those KOTO kids.
This weekend will see the KOTO Bike Ride – the first time in four years when it isn’t me organising it.
So. Anyone else want to share their Leaving Vietnam stories. How about you, you, you, you, you, you and you? Any thoughts on what it is that makes Vietnam just so hard to shake off?







16 comments
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November 28, 2007 at 11:14 am
Preyanka
I’ve left Hanoi so many times that my memories of leaving always take on the same sort of patina of desperation and are quickly replaced by maniacal determination, sort of like that of a heroin addict, to just get back, get my next fix. My history with Vietnam is one of having to leave and then throwing tantrums until I’m able to return; I can’t wait for the day I can just stay. I’m sorry you’re feeling blue. The only cure is going back.
November 28, 2007 at 11:19 am
ourman
Not blue. That’s too strong a word for it. It’s just proving hard to shake and to move on.
Certainly when I left I thought the chances are that I would never go back - that I could leave it in a mental box and move on - now I can’t imagine not returning.
I’ll certainly try to get there sometime later this year. Here’s hoping.
December 3, 2007 at 1:50 am
Robyn
Hmm. Lovely post, got me a bit teary there for a minute. I just might take you up on it, though my feelings about Vietnam are so conflicted I’d hardly know where to start. Even more so since going back.
December 4, 2007 at 11:14 pm
Alice
Although we lived there a decade ago, it left an indelible mark on us, both the land and the true friends we made and the incredible experiences we had. Because we live in the tropical north of Australia it’s easy to go back at the drop of a hat, and we make it once or twice a year, lucky us. I understand so well how you’re feeling: It won’t quite be the same when you return (something to do with not having a ‘base’ there) but you have to go!
December 4, 2007 at 11:51 pm
nswny
I will post a response when I get a quiet moment to sit down and do it. I’ve been trying to block my nostalgia so I can focus on being here in NYC but I suppose there has been enough space that I can more comfortably write about it. I will admit that what keeps me from missing it too much is the sincere belief I will return.
December 5, 2007 at 3:34 am
Hanoi Mark
Thanks so much OurMan - both for the post and for inviting me to comment. I know exactly where you are coming from. I continue to feel the loss of my departure from Hanoi even though it will be 2 years in March since I left (hard to believe). I am aware that the memory will gradually fade and I struggle against that. Still it all returns in waves at the most unexpected moments. Sometimes I don’t even know what brings it on - that vivid world pokes through into my reality.
Anyway, the link you provided above is about my readjustment to life after my return. Here though is the story of my departure:
http://hanoimark.blogspot.com/2006/03/leaving.html
I have returned once already (http://hanoimark.blogspot.com/2006/12/back-down-rabbit-hole.html) and hope to again this coming spring if all goes well. I am drawn back, but also wonder how many times I can return. Each time it changes for me. I fear that one of these times it will feel like a closure - though I guess if that happens it will only be because I’m at peace with it.
December 5, 2007 at 9:36 am
ourman
Thanks all - and I look forward to more feedback. nswny - I’ve given up trying to block it - and also given up thinking that I won’t go back. Initially I wanted to preserve the perfect memory but I am not sure I am that strong. Perhaps even if I go back and this time, it is awful then at least there will be that closure(as Mark puts it). Alternatively, my traveling days are far from over - maybe there is somewhere out there that can impress me just as much.
Robyn - would love to hear of your conflicts. I am not entirely conflict free - having met my girlfriend there, who is an environmental specialist I know the pollution and complete disregard for the environment bugs her and increasingly me. I also recall once reading that you were not all that enamoured with Vietnamese cuisine. I know we are in a minority but I entirely agree - my positive experiences of Vietnam had nothing to do with the food. For every fabulous bowl of pho I had to endure pig fat or hotpot with heart of liver. That’s just part of the deal so no complaints but I am not about to sing its praises either.
Although I have a hunch your conflicts go deeper.
Alice, I am very jealous you get to go back and there is a part of me that thinks that would be enough. The UK seems so far away that I can’t just nip over for a Nam fix. Then again my next long spell destination could well be Aus (birthplace of my girlfriend) so that will make it easier.
Mark, fabulous writing as ever. I had missed your departure story. Beautifully put. Oh and I knew a lot of the Youth Ambassadors and know exactly what you mean. I was always torn myself - it was easier just to do the expat thing but ultimately so much less fulfilling and it never really sat well with me. Too hard an adjustment when I spent all my days with kids who came from nothing. The guilt always hung over me. A beer at Le Pub was one thing but the Press Club was just too strange. That said I also found it just too tiring to be constantly dealing with the language barriers and cultural differences of being with local people. I was always seeking an illusive balance.
There is certainly a danger of seeing everything in hindsight as wonderful. I do recall empty evenings at home, frustrations at work and the claustrophobia of summer time Hanoi - something that is so hard to get away from without spending either hours on a bus or a fortune on a plane. But for the most part my problems were with expats and not Vietnamese, who, to a man treated me so well.
There are others who have had different experiences. Many of which I can only barely recognise and find hard to understand. Sometimes being overseas is tough. And there were times when I freaked out over the most minimal things. VSO told me that was down to “missing my support structure” ie family and friends. It was at least comforting to know it was normal.
Right now though, and for some reasons lots of my Hanoi daydreams involve scooters, I’d like to be flying around Hoan Kiem - preferably with Vietnamese friends laughing and riding alongside.
December 5, 2007 at 3:01 pm
Graham
I’ve been putting off replying to this. Not sure quite why really, but I’m not really sure what I think. A bit conflicted like Robyn I suppose. It is very easy to wear rose tinted spectacles about all this - especially, I imagine, when coupled with the onset of a British winter :) - I do miss Vietnam in fits and bursts, but I miss Korea in fits and bursts too. And Laos. And Cambodia. And Scotland…
Of course, there’s plenty I miss - you don’t spend ten years in a country without getting attached to something, someone or some place. In my case them be… quel surprise… food, noodlegirl, Saigon and Hanoi. Aslo, while living there, I developed a far more interesting job than I previously had and noodlegirl gave birth. All good stuff. Looking back, it’s interesting how the power cuts, traffic, hassle, humidity, endless otitis infections from supposedly posh swimming pools etc. etc. are very, very quickly forgotten.
As for my leaving story - well, one minute there was a great wee house in District 10 stacked with 80 or more boxes, 16 workers and a lot of sweat. Then there was an empty house, us 3, our long term maid/nanny, some suitcases and nothing in the cupboards. Our last supper in Saigon was a banh mi pate from the toothless xe om driver’s sister’s stall 2 minutes down the road. It came wrapped in pages of the Saigon Yellow pages, tailormade the way I taught her five years previous.
Soon after there were the goodbyes in the garden and we were off to the airport heading to a new life in cheery, southern France. And we’re still here… It wasn’t emotional leaving the physical place.
The thing is, I think I went through a bit of what you’re talking about years ago when I left Korea. Eventually I did go back, not for long and to a completely different end of the country. I ended up visiting my old stomping ground just for a weekend and I felt like a ghost. Like I shouldn’t be there. I don’t think I’ll have the same feeling going back to Saigon, but you never know.
December 5, 2007 at 4:57 pm
ourman
I think it can never be the same. It was my first expat experience and more importantly, the first time I realised that my life didn’t have to be the classic work, school, death, 9-5 thing.
From a KOTO point of view it was all an endless soap opera - from future plans to the lives of individuals - I want to know how it all turned out.
I certainly needed to get out when I did. It was shortly after Tet madness when the roads were chocca and the pollution worse than ever. It may just have been my shortening temper but I felt that there was a real growth of cheeky little bastards on expensive scooters. The mood and culture was changing and while it was economically for the better - some of the old Vietnam was changing.
I can only asume that change has continued and having loved it so much before you can imagine I won’t react well to further change.
But, for all that, I am still craving more.
December 6, 2007 at 12:28 am
Alice
Our Man perhaps an added inducement for your having a spell in Australia will be the advent of cheapie airlines (Tiger Air and Jetstar) flying from various Aus ports to half a dozen south-east asian ports, Saigon among them, and regularly.
Yep Vienam is changing and fast, but it continues to weave its magic.
It is never disappointing.
I have enjoyed your analysis and the other comments: funny isn’t it, how Vietnam gets under your skin, like no other place.
December 6, 2007 at 9:14 am
ourman
Alice, I remember waving goodbye to several of my beer buddies while in Vietnam the presume wisdom was always: “They’ll be back.”
In my time there, two and a half years, it was long enough to see people leave and see them return.
When I lived in Nicaragua I never saw the same devotian to the place that I saw among (most) Vietnam expats.
Paradoxically I wonder if its the freedom. One expat businessman told me: “I feel so free here”. While Vietnam may still be a dictatorship it’s a playground for expats and I think that helps.
People often talk of Communist bureacracy and maybe if you did everything by the book then that was the case. But no one ever did.
In all honesty I can’t see it as one thing (and if it was just one thing then it would be the Vietnamese people) and its not just about their smileyness. Discovering what is hidden is half the fascination - because as anyone who has been there a long time knows - nothing is what it seems.
And the longer you stay, the less you understand.
January 5, 2008 at 6:44 pm
Chau
It is not only the place but what you did there, isn’t it? And since you’ve moved on, and won’t probably reiterate the experience, then the second time would take on a whole new face, meaning possibly. I think Preyanka’s longing is more of an organic sort, the Hanoian having been ingrained in her personna as she grew up there. That’s the difference between TCK’s and former ex-pats, in my opinion.
As a soon to be Viet Kieu, raised in France, i might fit in somewhere in between, discovering the people with whom i share a common origin, and having to shed the French patina (copyright Preyanka) in order to call VN my new home. A pragmatist’s love of some sort desirably, but i fear i too will succumb to the enthralling spell :)
April 13, 2008 at 2:11 pm
Caroline
Just reading all the nostalgic love letters to Hanoi and wondering if south Vietnam has the same magic. I have been accepted with VSO and have been offered a placement in Cao Lanh, Dong Thap Province. The job sounds interesting but I’m wondering about feeling isolated. I’m guessing the ex-pat social life is thin if not non-existant - good thing or bad thing? I worry about not having native English speakers to connect to but understand the down side too. Does anyone have any experience of this area?
May 14, 2008 at 3:23 pm
Jonny
Hi Caroline,
I’ve no idea if you’ll be back to read this or if you’ll have made your decision yet but yes, the South definately has the same magic.. and better food + weather, so don’t let Steve put you off :)
I was based in HCMC and didn’t make it to the Mekong too often but I had several friends who would come up from the delta for a weekend or two a month and thoroughly enjoyed being able to enjoy both life in a rural setting and a chance to let off steam in the city. Language will be a barrier initially but there have been several VSOs who have had rural placemnts in VN and ended up with incredible language skills and many local friends, so don’t let isolation put you off too much - and of course there will be many opportunities to go and visit friends in the city when you feel the need.
VSO should be able to put you in touch with a guy called Church who I think was based in the same place - possibly the same project - as well as any volunteers in Saigon who will still be there when you arrive so you can make contact
May 14, 2008 at 4:06 pm
ourmanwhere
Jonny, Thanks for your note. I did try email Caroline with some background and my thoughts but never heard back from her. I wonder if she ever made it to Vietnam.
June 28, 2008 at 12:55 pm
Mathias
What a surprise, a google image search for “hoan kiem couple” leads me to an old acquaintance - our man! (long time ago I did a few blog posts on “the smell of coffee in the morning about Tay Ho and Hanoi…)
This post about leaving Hanoi, Vina Pop, and the Vinataba guys is brilliant. I’ve tried to leave Hanoi as well - nhung anh nho Ha Noi rat nhieu! So I always come back, and here I am, still.
And there’s a comment from Preya too…another name I remember. The world’s a village, really.
Listen to some quality Vina Pop :) here http://youtube.com/watch?v=WuNlVRLDK70 (Ang May Buon by Cam Ly) and remember Hanoi :D